main road

Total mileage: 78
Terrain: Flat on mainland but steep end of day climb on Arran with heavy rain

Another long day in the saddle after the previous day. However, we had a glorious view in the morning at the YHA hostel. The guys there were all really friendly and sent us off with a hot cup of tea and toast.

The weather was pretty foul again but not the same level of rainfall as the previous day. We cycled for a few miles on the small B7000 the hostel was sited off, until we came to the A713 main road to Ayr at Carpshaim. This road was fantastic as there was a long downhill through some incredible countryside. I think in all, we must have had the slope in our favour for about 4 miles.

We stopped off at a superstore in Ayr to stock up after the previous night’s food shortages. None of us wanted to be stuck in that position again in a hurry. Ayr is a very industrialised town and not particularly pleasant. Although the cycle route was well marked, the parts that took us through the urban areas, up through Prestwick and Troon, were particularly forgettable.

Fortunately, the route through the forests close to Kilwinning and Stevenston were really pretty and well maintained. We hardly saw another soul. The well kept cycle route made the ever worsening weather more bearable. Indeed, with 5 miles to Androssan where we intended to catch a ferry to Arran, the skies opened.

By the time we made it to Androssan, we were all completely soaked and the level of motivation was dropping almost as fast as our body temperatures. We timed the ferry perfectly, arriving with just enough time to buy our tickets and board the ferry. As you can see from the first picture, our bikes were fastened with a single bungee to the side of the boat. This, however, was sufficient as the crossing was relatively calm.

Arran looked incredible at first sight. The heavy, opalescent skies looming threateningly overhead as the ferry drew into the harbour. It was getting cold and our kit had not dried on the brief crossing. Mary was feeling the worst, suffering from knee problems. The harbour town of Brodlick was sufficiently congenial but very small. We soon pushed past the town limits as we headed northwards, towards the other ferry port town on the island of Lochranza.

Our route clung to the coastline, affording us the opportunity to see a sea lion as we rode along. The absence of traffic was also noted, something that made the final 16 mile push all the more bearable in the rain storm. The second leg of the Arran ride took us inland, into the mountains. The drama of the landscape was incredible, a real highlight of the trip as we forced the bikes up an ever steeper climb. The lashing rain only seemed to heighten the moment, making the scenery foreboding and menacing. It truly felt as though we were adventurers in parts unknown.

The hostel in Lochranza was great but considering that we had hardly passed a soul on the roads, strangely busy!

Total mileage: 88
Terrain: Hills – Very challenging and long day

We had not intended to make today such a long day but things conspired against us and we ended up cycling for 13 hours again. We did pass a big landmark today, as the image shows below, we made it to Scotland. I also set a new top speed record for the trip, beating Pete by hitting 45.5mph – bloody scary on a fully loaded bike!

Hasket Newmarket was lovely and the cycle ride up to Dalston for breakfast was very pleasant. We had cereal and fruit for a change, leaving the full English aside. From Dalston, we went via Carlisle, a super- grim town after the beauty of the Lakes. Things got a little tricky thereafter, as we cycled on B roads that run parallel to the M6 motorway. Our plans came undone when the road ran out, with only the motorway as an option. There was a lot of construction going on, so we decided to cycle through the road works, along the M6. Things went well until we were stopped by the Foreman. He gave us an earful about the safety aspect and that we should go back and around (a 12 mile detour). He fortunately relented and allowed us through, over the border and into Scotland.

As soon as we crossed the border, the weather turned foul and started to drizzle. We had to join the A75, a dual carriageway from Gretna to Dumfries. Fortunately, Mary had an alternative plan and we hopped onto a minor road, which was far more pleasant. We were about 5 miles outside Dumfries when the skies opened and we were all completely soaked. As we rolled into Dumfries, we were unsure whether to press on or stop and dry off.

Our decision was made for us by the fact that there was nowhere safe for us to leave the bikes, so we bought some food and headed to the tourist office. Here, we bought a map of Scotland and talked to the guys there about where we should head to. They recommended a place called St Johns.

Unfortunately, this meant getting back on the dual carriageway and cycling in the rain. All of us were cold, tired and fed up of the busy roads. All of this changed once we got off the A roads. We were fortunate enough to cycle a wet but gorgeous road, another top 5 road for the trip for me.

The biggest blow of the day came when we got to St Johns. All of the hostels, hotels and B&Bs were booked out, including some rancid Scottish woman who lied through her teeth saying one moment that she had room and suddenly changing her mind the next. What really galled us was that she said there was a YHA hostel 10 miles up the road, in the middle of nowhere. We were cold, tired and hungry and really not in the mood for this crap.

Our early impressions of Scotland were somewhat saved from complete damnation when we eventually arrived at the hostel. We were greeted by some really friendly people, given great rooms with incredible views and then food by the other people present. Overall, a very long day indeed that ended really rather well.